Wines of Texas · Field GuideGrape № 007

Aglianico

ah-LYAH-nee-koh · Vitis vinifera ‘Aglianico’

Southern Italy’s great red — Taurasi in Campania, Aglianico del Vulture on the volcano next door. Ancient enough that the Romans drank it; the old story credits Greek settlers, though the paper trail is thin. Sometimes called the Barolo of the South, mostly by people selling it.

Plate 01 · Cluster on the vine, pre-veraison · photo: ANTONELLO, CC BY 2.0
Plate 01 · Cluster on the vine, pre-veraison · photo: ANTONELLO, CC BY 2.0
Plate 02 · In the glass · photo to come
Color
Deep garnet
Body
Full
Tannin
Serious
If you like
Nebbiolo, structure

/ What it tastes like /

Dark cherry and plum dried halfway to leather, smoke, tar, and a tannic grip that means business — backed by acidity most big reds gave up to get that size. That combination of muscle and freshness is rare, and it’s why the good ones age for decades.

/ Why it works in Texas /

Aglianico is one of the latest-ripening reds in the world — in Italy the harvest can run into November — and it holds its acid in heat that wilts other grapes. A long, hot Texas season is less a challenge than the whole point. It’s still a rarity here, which makes finding one on a tasting list feel like inside information.

/ What to eat with it /

Those tannins want fat and protein: braised short ribs, sausage and peppers, anything with a bone in it. This is not a porch sipper — bring food or bring patience.

/ From our visits /

Duchman the Italian-leaning lineup is the whole point there, and the Aglianico was excellent — our word at the time, and we stand by it.029